Giorni selvaggi

Giorni selvaggi By William Finnegan Guido Scarabottolo, Giorni selvaggi Il surf un arte dai molti paradossi in cui il desiderio di mostrarsi non mai separato da quello di essere soli con le onde e sparire dietro un sipario di schiuma Le onde sono il campo da gioco Il fin
  • Title: Giorni selvaggi
  • Author: William Finnegan Guido Scarabottolo
  • ISBN: -
  • Page: 149
  • Format: Kindle Edition
  • Giorni selvaggi By William Finnegan Guido Scarabottolo, Il surf un arte dai molti paradossi, in cui il desiderio di mostrarsi non mai separato da quello di essere soli con le onde e sparire dietro un sipario di schiuma Le onde sono il campo da gioco Il fine ultimo Ma sono anche l avversario, la nemesi William Finnegan ha sub to l incanto del mare fin da bambino, in California, vedendo i surfisti danzare sull acqua.Il surf un arte dai molti paradossi, in cui il desiderio di mostrarsi non mai separato da quello di essere soli con le onde e sparire dietro un sipario di schiuma Le onde sono il campo da gioco Il fine ultimo Ma sono anche l avversario, la nemesi William Finnegan ha sub to l incanto del mare fin da bambino, in California, vedendo i surfisti danzare sull acqua A tredici anni andr a vivere ai piedi del cratere di Diamond Head, alle Hawaii E quell incanto si trasformer a poco a poco in una devozione assoluta al dio oceano A venticinque anni, il suo sogno di rigenerarsi agli Antipodi e vedere il mondo prima che si trasformi tutto in Los Angeles Inizia cos la ricerca , il viaggio dell Inverno senza fine, la circumnavigazione del globo a caccia di onde Prima Guam, poi le isole Samoa, il regno di Tonga, l arcipelago delle Figi, dove scopre il magnifico break di Tavarua, davanti a un lembo di terra assente perfino dalle mappe Al suo fianco c Bryan, che andato al funerale di Kerouac e fa surf come se non ci fosse un domani Ultima tappa il Sudafrica dell apartheid, dove matura una nuova consapevolezza, poi l inevitabile ritorno a casa Ma la ricerca non ancora finita Scritto nell arco di vent anni e anticipato da un celebre profilo apparso sul New Yorker , Giorni selvaggi un racconto di avventure e il diario di un ossessione, da cui si sprigiona per la prima volta in letteratura il terribile splendore del surf i suoi codici tribali, lo studio dei venti, la lunga attesa dell onda Che una qualit dell essere, una via per conoscere s stessi.
    Giorni selvaggi By William Finnegan Guido Scarabottolo,
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    About "William Finnegan Guido Scarabottolo"

    1. William Finnegan Guido Scarabottolo

      William Finnegan is a staff writer at The New Yorker He has won several awards for his journalism and the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Biography or Autobiography for his work Barbarian Days A Surfing Life.

    673 thoughts on “Giorni selvaggi”

    1. I spent a lot of car locked hours listening to William Finnegan s Barbarian Days A Surfing Life while I drove through three provinces to get to a two week placement and back again In fact, the 18 and a bit hours of Finnegan s Pulitzer Prize winning memoir lasted through two driving companions, one who joined me for the book s opening hours, the other who took in the final three hours The later companion remarked, with nary but an hour left in the audiobook Man, he s just all about the surfing, i [...]

    2. William Finnegan, has a sultry pleasant voice His voice alone was alluring.I enjoyed listening to the never ending surfing stories as I might a guided meditationI often drifted into ozo land taking detours away from the spiritual path I didn t have the endurance to keep up with the Zen of Surfing God William Finnegan is a phenomenal writer blows my mind a surfer could be so lyrical and descriptive BUT THERE IS NO LET UP Very impressive ongoing ongoing and ongoing specific detail [...]

    3. Let s get this out of the way I don t know how to surf, I ve never been to Hawaii, and what little I do know of surfing was gleaned from watching cheesy movies like 1991 s Point Break and 1987 s North Shore To wit I am not the ideal audience for this memoir about a surfing life And yet, I really enjoyed this book For starters, it has some seriously gorgeous prose William Finnegan writes for The New Yorker and he won a Pulitzer Prize for Barbarian Days, which is how it came to my attention The me [...]

    4. What a wonderful book I listened to the audiobook and was glad I did William Finnegan has a delightful voice So soothing that you feel calmed This Pulitzer Prize winner is so worth the read.Highly recommend.5 out of 5 stars.

    5. Barbarian Days A Surfing Life is the subtitle than the title that is, a surfing life To break it down further, it is life than surfing, as it follows William Finnegan from youngest years to the present day, from continent to continent, from schools to jobs, from here to eternity Is there a lot of surfing in that life Yes Is there a lot of life maybe too much life in this book Yes again.Meaning, I felt that 464 pages was a bit much Surprising, considering Finnegan is a New Yorker writer that is [...]

    6. Barbarian Days reviewThis is a memoir built around surfing Despite knowing nothing about surfing I enjoyed most if it That s an accomplishment It s also got a great cover The book is split into three parts The first part, set in California and Hawaii, is the strongest It talks about Finnegan s childhood and his discovery of surfing If this were a superhero movie this would be the part where the protagonist discovers their powers Some of this was excerpted in The New Yorker and it s what drew me [...]

    7. Finn AgainThis book is not about moonlight on the bayou It s about structured water Water, and other media, muscled with vortices Feminine Wave, by HokusaiThink whirlpools knots of energy patterns structuring aquatic, psychic, social, and cultural flows Finnegan s narrative navigates the fluidities of all these structures at times as lazily adrift in blue latitudes as a Chet Baker solo, at times determined, at times tubed and godlike, at others submerged and gasping for life as if searching for [...]

    8. Barbarian Days is Finnegan s autobiography memoir of his life as a surfer His interest in surfing starts at a very young age in California and becomes a real passion when his family moves to Hawaii when he is in middle school.Finnegan states that surfers are perfectionists I don t know the others, but he certainly is one He spends most of his life almost till the end of his 40s searching for the perfect wave and perfect place to surf This journey takes him literally around the world many stops f [...]

    9. Visceral details and descriptions and insider jargon draws us into the author s globe trotting adventures as he chronicles his enduring love for the art of surfing The search for a clean set of waves influences, shapes, and affects the choices he makes in life, and it is a sweet ride to bob along beside him as he tries to understand what the pursuit of surfing did to his soul.

    10. This was the longest 450 page book I have ever read This memoir covers the surfing life of New Yorker and New York Times Reporter William Finnegan from his humble upbringing in Souther California and Hawaii, through a southeast Asian Pacific wanderlust surfing tour with his friend Bryan in his twenties, and ends with a middle aged father slumming nor easter chop on the island and the Jersey Shore If I read one description of a wave, whether it be how it breaks, whether it s a reef break, where [...]

    11. This is a dazzling book like the glints from the sun on the surfing waves While there are some philosophy of life and memoir mixed in, the book never deviated from the theme of surfing.

    12. Endless winter One sparkling May afternoon in 1979 I answered a knock at the front door of our house in Missoula to discover a large, angry man Bill Finnegan and I vowed that the first one to get back to America would kick your ass, he said.My wife had some nice pieces of antique furniture I wanted to spare so I stepped out onto the porch and closed the door behind me Who are you So began a confrontation that would end peacefully but leave me bewildered I had taken a job the year working for Out [...]

    13. Five stars for surfers, 3.5 for lay people Lots of detail about waves, weather, paddling, etc that might become repetitive for those who haven t spent a lot of time in the ocean Incredible travelogue of surfing the globe, primarily in the 70s and 80s from a writer for the New Yorker He and a friend were 2 of the first 10 or so people in the world to surf Tavarua, and they would not speak of it by name in the hope that it would remain undiscovered Deep insights into the lives of his closest surfi [...]

    14. The images contained in this book made me feel like I was reading a treasured journal or scrapbook It made me feel welcome and willing to dive deep into FInnegan s memories Which, by the way, I am severely jealous of his superb memory I could almost smell the salt in the air and faintly hear the waves off in the distance I could taste the author s fear, I reveled in his happiness and sympathized with his childhood troubles Very well written I am very honored to have won this book in a giveaway.

    15. Loving this storyI lived it, at least the Hawaii part Ten years older than Finnegan, my Hawaiian surfing days were rudely interrupted by a summons from Uncle Sam It would be twenty years before I picked up surfing again Finnegan nails the lure of the waves perfectly He s brutally honest about his man child existence from his high school years on Traveling to exotic surf spots and exploring reefs across the South Pacific takes him around the world Great eye for details in a colorful, at times str [...]

    16. Oddly enough since I have always lived on the Northern plains and have only been to the ocean a few times, I loved this book Finnegan does a marvelous job of explaining and describing the intricacies of both waves and surfing Many times it felt as if the reader was riding along on the board behind him seeing those huge waves barreling across the coast.Occasionally I would have liked to have had a glossary of surfer terminology, but for the most part it was possible to glean meaning from the cont [...]

    17. Having been born and raised in Hawaii to a father who learned to surf in the 60 s, and me learning to surf in the 70 s I really thought I d like this book I enjoyed it, except that I felt it was at least twice as long as it should have been It suffered from needing an editor Badly.If you were into the 60 s and 70 s surf scene, you might find this interesting, but be prepared to stand by with a dictionary and some long nights, as Finnegan is VERBOSE and definitely enjoys showing off his English [...]

    18. No se muy bien que decir de este libro es la historia de un deporte de una forma de vida llevada al limite de una obsesi n por superarse a si mismo constantemente de la b squeda de la muerte en la ola mas grande y poco frecuentada que se pueda encontrar Realmente no lo se pero lo que si se es que Finnegan comienza a contar su vida y sus viajes y te ves sumergido y nunca mejor dicho en su historia sin posibilidad de dejar de leerla, ya que ademas de la historia del surf te cuenta tambi n unos ret [...]

    19. Welp, I hadn t imagined just how much I d love this book There s something so measured beautiful in the whole narrative The opposite of chaotic waves A gentle bobbing Amazing phrases descriptions of magnificent frightening waves, lovely accounts of people met along the way, all in that measured, warm tone Want to read everything he s written now.

    20. I guess this book can be awesome for someone that loves surfing I found it way too long and repetitive William Finnegan is moving through his life, from continent to continent, and there is a lot of surfing on the way Some great description, but could be easily cut in half.The first part, set in California and Hawaii, is the strongest It talks about Finnegan s childhood and his discovery of surfing.In the second part, his friend and him are going around the world, finding out great surfing place [...]

    21. For those of us who have never surfed and never will, the sport has always held a mystic otherworldly glamor incorporating a strength of purpose that is almost superhuman From an early age, surfing was part of Finnegan s DNA, thanks in large part to the freedom he enjoyed as a kid first in California, then, Hawaii His father, working in the film industry, was largely responsible, not only because of these locations being necessary for his work, but also because of one remembered incident when th [...]

    22. Having just finished The Boys in the Boat, I picked up this book hoping for a similar read about the surfing life But whereas Boys in the Boat opened out to a story that spoke to a specific time and place in history, this book is narrowly focused on the author and his global quest for the perfect wave I found the endless dissection of waves and surfing techniques repetitious and lacking in power to move the narrative forward.I really only became interested in the author s story when he talks abo [...]

    23. One can imagine that the book Barbarian Days must be a wet dream for surfers It s all there the triumphs and the tragedies, the waves heard round the world and those hidden gems known to only a chosen few diehards.Yet, the book offers much, even for those who have never planted feet on a board or paddled out into the ocean, challenging themselves This is a story not unlike the ocean, with layers of insight, into surfers and surfing culture, into men and their driving passions, into life in corne [...]

    24. Full disclosure I grew up in the same L.A suburb and graduated from the same high school from which the author s surfing life originates, in part So there was an extra personal resonance that carried me through some of the repetitive installments of wave catching negotiation, description, reflection, and reverie Finnegan s writing is smart and emotionally engaging enough that even if you ve never thought about surfing culture, you re likely to ride these memoire waves with enthusiasm At times I [...]

    25. Questo libro sorprendente, qui dentro c di tutto Io lo definirei un romanzo di formazione Un ragazzo, la sua passione, i suoi amori, i suoi amici, le persone che lo aiutano a crescere, a diventare l uomo che oggi E in mezzo a tutto questo c il surf Passione cos travolgente che quasi porta chi lo pratica ad odiarlo mi ha ricordato Open di Agassi Scrittura fluida e avvolgente, bellissimi i passaggi in cui spiega che cosa vuol dire essere in mare aperto e avere una paura assurda ma non poter smette [...]

    26. Una vita su una tavola da surf Un a incondizionato, al limite della spregiudicatezza.Molto bello.Non ho dato cinque stelle perch troppo lungo.

    27. Simply sublime William Bill Finnegan, a journalist for the New Yorker and other major magazines, tells his life s story At a very early age he discovers surfing for himself and follows his passion way into his fifties He travels in his mid twenties, following a four year search for the perfect wave in the South Pacific, Australia and southern Africa By far, these are the strongest chapters of his biography, and the ones I cherished the most Having surfed many of the spots he mentions along the w [...]

    28. This was the 2016 Pulitzer Prize Winning book for Biography or Autobiography It is a memoir about his life as a surfer which was also an obsession and a way of life Finnegan was raised in California and Hawaii where he started surfing as a child He tells of how he literally chased waves all over the world, including the South Pacific, Australia, and Africa He writes about his surfing experiences and the male friendships He became a journalist and war reporter Even today, 50 years later his passi [...]

    29. Se que este libro tiene un gran numero de fans, y bastante gente me lo ha recomendado de forma bastante elogiosa, pero, lo siento, me ha parecido un co azo realmente infumable que ha hecho que haya estado a punto de abandonarlo en varias ocasiones.Quiza si me interesase algo el tema del surf, algo de lo que habla el libro constantemente o si fuese un enamorado de la tipologia y el comportamiento de las olas, algo que se menciona cada dos lineas y media mas o menos, este libro hubiese sido la mar [...]

    30. Wow, I fell for this book HARD I was a bit surprised bc I thought it was so outside my wheelhouse But, reading it, I was reminded of time spent with friends, and being a tad reckless in our physical activities skiing, snowboarding, kite skateboarding, etc But, also, I recognized Finnegan s work from the New Yorker from the very first chapter I read the excerpt a few years ago.While this book is about a man obsessed with surfing, it s also about how he grew up, with his passion He mentions histor [...]

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